Chateau Margaux 2016
The property was known as "La Mothe de Margaux" since the 12th century. La Mothe translate to hill or mound. Not much occurred on the wine side until in 1572 when Pierre Lestonnac acquired the property. In the following 10 years, he abandoned grown cereal grains and planted vines. Chateau Margaux separate itself from all other Chateaux in the early 18th Century. A man named Berlon employed some visionary tactics to increase the quality of the wine. He vinified red and white grapes separately. He ceased harvesting grapes in the morning so there would not be any dew on the grapes thus diluting the wine and finally he recognized the importance of the different plots of land and the grapes to plant in each. Soon Chateau Margaux was at the table of the Ruling elite including the English Prime Minister and Thomas Jefferson. As with most estates during the French Revolution, the estate was taken by the revolutionaries and sold. Laure de Fumel who was a descendant of Pierre Lestonnac purchased the property. In the early 1800s, Bertrand Douat, Marquis de la Colonilla purchased the estate and promptly decide the house was not glorious enough for him, so he had the current Chateau built. The Marquis was 70 before construction began so it was inevitable that the estate would change change shortly. During the 1855 Classification, Chateau Margaux was the only wine that received a marking of 20 out of 20. The estate passed into the hands of Count Pillet-Will. The Counts' addition to the history of Chateau Margaux was to start declassifying young vines into a second wine in 1908. In 1950, The Ginestet family acquired the estate. Their negoiciant business floundered in the early 1970s and they were forced to sell the chateau in 1977 to Andre Mentzelopoulos, whos daughter still controls the estate today.
The size of the estate is 262 hectares although only 80 hectares are planted for red wine production. The average age of vines is kept close to 35 years old but there are several Cabernet Sauvignon parcels that are 80 years old. Some Merlot and Petit Verdot parcels are nearly 60 years old. Since 2017, The Grand Vin is 100% farmed organic and the a large portion of the the second wine is also.
Wine Advocate: 99
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The 2016 Chateau Margaux is a blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, plus 1% of Petit Verdot, representing 28% of the total production. This is the highest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon apart from 2013, which was due to the poor Merlot. It was cropped around 50 hectoliters per hectare depending on the grape variety, for example it could be up to 65 hectoliters per hectare in some sectors. Lucid in color, it has a detailed and precise bouquet with mineral-rich blackberry, raspberry coulis and limestone scents. It feels very perfumed, though not powerful like many Grand Vins in 2016. The palate is a different creature to the aromatics. Here is the intensity of the vintage with shimmering black fruit laced with spice, a killer line of acidity and an irresistible crescendo on the finish. Then, graphite lingering on the aftertaste, a nod to Pauillac perhaps. The aftertaste is so long you could probably write a letter to your friend enthusing about this wine before the aftertaste fades. Doubtless it is destined to be compared to the magnificent 2015 Chteau Margaux and to be truthful, there's a hair's breadth between them. In a word: crystalline.
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Decanter: 97
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It's unusual to have this intensity, freshness and integration of tannins at such a young age, but that is the beauty of 2016 in the best cases. This has an elegant structure with a touch of austerity through the mid-palate, alongside cool crushed tobacco, black fruits, juicy minerality and some salinity on the finish, all held in by silky tannins. There is not the big body and intensity of the majestic 2015 Margaux, which was easily one of the wines of the vintage, but the aromatics are more expressive in 2016 and there is a subtle complexity that builds over the palate. The blend here is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon (one of the highest ever), 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, with yields fairly high at 52hl/ha for the grand vin. It represents 28% of the overall production, compared to 35% last year. The grand vin has this wonderful essence of Margaux feel, and will reward patience - no doubt it will take on some extra weight over time and deepen into a stunning wine, among the great classics of this property. A fresh 3.6pH alongside a tannin count of 73IPT. Philippe Bascaules returned from Napa just before the primeurs; his first full vintage will be the 2017.
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Wine Enthusiast: 99
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This Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine is packed with firm tannins and a dark, dense structure. It is seriously concentrated and powerful in its impression. Magnificent fruit contrasts with the structure to suggest a wine ready for long-term aging.
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Vinous: 100
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The 2016 Margaux is magnificent in the best tradition of the Chteau Margaux style, which always speaks more to finesse than power. Above all else, the 2016 is a wine of superb persistence, understated power and total refinement. There is wonderful depth and intensity to the ripe red and purplish-hued fruits, accompanied by mint, rose petal and sweet spice overtones that develop in the glass. The 2016 finishes with great aromatic lift and freshness. It has been absolutely compelling on the two occasions I have tasted it so far.
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James Suckling: 99
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A purity of fruit marks this Margaux with lots of currant and berry character. Full body, bright acidity and round tannins. Its a larger and more expanded style of Margaux. A wine with a heart and body. Strong.
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