Donnhoff Tonschiefer Riesling Trocken 2023

This is the dry version of the Oberhäuser Leistenberg. The hill just to the left of the vineyard is called the Lemberg, and with the Leistenberg on the other side, these hillsides form a valley. Cold air from the Hunsrück blows through the area, passing by the Leistenberg making it impossible for botrytis to develop. Further, the exposition is southeast rather than due south like the Hermannshöhle. This means longer ripening and lower potential alcohol, perfect for Kabinett style wines. Tonschiefer means “clay slate”, so named for the soil that dominates the vineyard. This is the original vineyard for the family and holds a very special place.

Wine Advocate: 90
Dönnhoff's 2023 Tonschiefer Riesling trocken is clear and vegetal on the intense, fresh and spicy nose. The charming fruit is only expressed on the palate, which is round, lush, fruity and elegant and has fine, elegant acidity, with a clear, fresh and savory finish. This is a serious, good Riesling from the Nahe that was bottled under screw cap with 12% stated alcohol. Tasted in October 2024.

Vinous: 90

The 2023 Riesling Tonschiefer was picked mainly in the Oberhäuser Leistenberg (80%) and a neighboring site, both on Tonschiefer or shale, plus younger vines from the Klamm and the Hermannshöhle. It is made in stainless steel only. The nose is shy but shows a savory, herbal note of fern, tender lemons and a certain stoniness. The palate is beautifully restrained, crystal-clear, stony and pervaded by clear-cut lemon brightness, finishing bone dry with a touch of ripe lemon zest. Lovely and elegant.

James Suckling: 94
The vibrant aromas of white peaches and white blossoms are married to an intense slatey minerality in this sleek and precise dry Nahe riesling. Quite some structure, although it is barely medium-bodied. Wonderful stony intensity at the very long, bright finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.