Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas 2016
Dominique Ay, the serious-minded proprietor of Domaine Raspail-Ay makes one of the most iconic wines in all of Gigondas. Its 19 hectares make up one contiguous block of vines, mid-slope on the rugged clay/ limestone terraces, the best terroir of the Gigondas appellation. The imposing rock formation of the Dentelles de Montmirail looms above as a backdrop. Besides a small amount of Gigondas Rosè, only one wine is made-Gigondas. There is no Côtes du Rhone, no "Réserve", "Vielles Vignes" or special new oak cuvée bottling. Only one wine, consistently ranked among the top wines produced in the appellation year in and year out.
Wine Advocate: 93
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Plummy and rich, the 2016 Gigondas is full-bodied and velvety, everything you might expect from this benchmark estate. Dense and powerful, my only reservation is its slightly chocolaty, fudge-like notes and elevated alcohol (15.5% alcohol). Like always, it starts off as a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre in the vineyard, although exact proportions can vary from year to year, depending on yields among the different varieties. Christophe Ay and his sister Anne-Sophie represent the seventh generation at this venerable family-run estate. Owners of 19 hectares in Gigondas, they produce only Gigondas, and only a single cuvée each year. Plantings are 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, all on the plain in front of the village, not on any of the high-elevation sites in the Dentelles. The grapes are all destemmed, then fermented in vats using indigenous yeasts before élevage in old foudres for at least two years.
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Decanter: 95
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From a single unbroken plot near the village of Gigondas, matured in old foudres for 18-24 months, producing a single wine - no special cuvées. It has a lovely nose, really detailed with vibrant damson compote and blackberries. Black cherries can also be coaxed out, alongside some lavender and dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied, really fresh and crisp, with a long, herbal finish. It's already dangerously drinkable and buzzes with life. Really top stuff, with a lightness of touch and elegance that some others lack this year. Drinking Window 2018 - 2030.
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Vinous: 95
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Lurid ruby-red. Highly expressive red and dark berry preserve aromas are complemented by incense, _ garrigue_ and floral pastille nuances. Sappy and seamless on the palate, offering deeply concentrated, primary black raspberry, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors and a touch of candied lavender. Smooth, harmonious tannins build slowly on an impressively long, seamless finish that leaves behind sappy floral and dark berry notes.
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Jeb Dunnuck: 94
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Similarly colored, the 2016 Gigondas (70% Grenache, 23% Syrah, and the rest Mourvèdre) will be a beautiful wine from this reference point estate, and I suspect ranking among the finest wines ever made from this address. A huge blast of black raspberries, cherries, dried earth, pepper, and graphite notes all flow to a medium to full-bodied, incredibly pure Gigondas that has present tannins, a great mid-palate, and no hard edges. It’s going to benefit from short-term cellaring and keep for two decades.
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